Climate change is reshaping Burgundy. Warmer vintages are pushing the Côte d’Or toward ripeness extremes, challenging the balance that defines great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Elevation, once a disadvantage, is now a critical asset—and that’s exactly what the Hautes-Côtes offers.
If you want a glimpse into Burgundy’s future, look no further than Boris Champy.
A former technical director at Louis Latour and winemaker at Clos des Lambrays, Champy brings serious pedigree—but it’s what he’s done since 2019 that has the region buzzing. That year, he acquired the prized vineyards of Didier Montchovet, a quiet pioneer of biodynamics in Burgundy.
These aren’t just any parcels. Montchovet began farming them biodynamically in the mid-1980s, making them some of the oldest of their kind in the region. They’re also densely planted and naturally low-yielding—an increasingly rare combination that favors concentration and site expression over volume. But the real story lies in their location: the Hautes-Côtes.
Historically overlooked, the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune is quickly becoming one of Burgundy’s most compelling frontiers. If you haven’t paid it much attention before, you’re not alone—but that’s changing fast. Forward-thinking producers have been quietly investing here, and for good reason.
Climate change is reshaping Burgundy. Warmer vintages are pushing the Côte d’Or toward ripeness extremes, challenging the balance that defines great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Elevation, once a disadvantage, is now a critical asset—and that’s exactly what the Hautes-Côtes offers.
Stretching along the hills west of Beaune down toward Les Maranges, this “high country” (Hautes = high) sits above the famed slopes of the Côte de Beaune. Vineyards cling to mid-slopes, often south-facing, capturing optimal sunlight. Decades ago, these sites struggled to fully ripen grapes in cooler conditions. Today, they strike a near-perfect balance: enough warmth for ripeness, enough altitude for freshness, tension, and lift.
Champy isn’t alone in recognizing this shift. Esteemed producers like Domaine Leflaive, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, and Vincent Dancer have all made strategic moves into the Hautes-Côtes. The message is clear: this is no longer Burgundy’s periphery—it’s its proving ground for the next era.
In Champy’s hands, these vineyards aren’t just a continuation of tradition—they’re a blueprint for what Burgundy is becoming.
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