Due to its birth under tension, there is an intrinsic component of mystery to Dom Pérignon Vintage 2017, a complexity, a duality, like a dive into the eye of an energy storm. Between opulence and edge, between roundness and straightness, it reconciles contraries. It has mineral tension, a signature so iconic for Dom Pérignon. Yet also the generosity of unheard-of maturities, in a tamed and channeled way though. Its movement is pulsating, whirling, like a substance escaping gravity.
I've been waiting for this one for a while. Just ask my sales rep—she's had to listen to me ask, at least twice a week for the past three months, when the 2017 Dom Pérignon would finally be released.
I'll admit, this wine wasn't really on my radar at first. Everything I had read painted 2017 as a mediocre vintage in Champagne. In fact, some houses, like Louis Roederer, decided not to produce their tête de cuvée at all because of the challenging growing season. That made Dom Pérignon's decision to release a 2017 vintage all the more intriguing.
So why am I so excited about the 2017 Dom Pérignon?
The answer is simple: Antonio Galloni.
When it comes to Champagne critics, Galloni sits at the very top of my list. When I read his updated review in early May—where he described the 2017 Dom Pérignon as "a slightly more refined version of the 2002" and awarded it 98 points—I was completely sold.
The 2002 Dom Pérignon is one of my all-time favorite wines and, in my opinion, the greatest Champagne vintage of this century. Yes, I even prefer it to the legendary 2008.
The deeper I dug into what shaped the 2017 vintage, the more Galloni's praise made sense. Severe spring frosts and mildew dramatically reduced Pinot Noir yields, resulting in one of the highest percentages of Chardonnay ever used in a Dom Pérignon vintage. The final blend is an astonishing 61% Chardonnay, giving the wine remarkable elegance, texture, and freshness.
Galloni describes it as "an opulent wine that has gained mid-palate creaminess and has just come together beautifully." That's exactly the kind of Champagne that gets my attention.
Now for the bad news.
This is expected to be the smallest production of Dom Pérignon ever released. Allocations are extremely limited, and most estimates suggest it will only be available in the market for about three months.
If you've ever wanted to experience a potentially historic vintage of Dom Pérignon, don't wait. Once it's gone, it's gone!