John Hughes is the hero of high-quality, value-for-money Riesling in Australia. We love him for it. The wines start at around $27AUD and soar to over $100AUD, but every cuvée is worth every penny. The 2021 No. 44 is from the Eden Valley and boasts the mineral acid line and taut, austere line that the region does so well. At an elevation of over 440 meters, and the ground littered with skeletal, podzolic soils, the Eden is an ideal place for Riesling, as we see here. Pithy acidity (enhanced, I am sure, by the early pick and resultant 11.5% alcohol) is couched within a field of spring flowers, crushed rocks and citrus zest. Super good.
This hinges to lemon citrus and has an elegant nose with almost essence-like intensity. The palate has a smooth, fleshy and softly round feel. Elegantly fleshy and plenty of fine acidity below the fruit here. Drink over the next three years. Screw cap.
Rated 92/100 James Suckling
Rated 93/100 Vinous Media
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